Just a language shift for corporations, definitely.

Subscriptions aren’t buying, thats the problem.

ABB is what I mostly use, going to have to give MAM a go again (didnt really do much audio books for a long while)

If its something I’m concerned about finding to redownload, I just back up the content itself.

Otherwise its just arr’s doing their thing to my specs, so I just backup my arr’s.

Amcrest are great, but not all of them. Learned that with the stupid ASH-21 I bought.

So check the frigate docs for cameras, there is a great list there.

You could just use a local NFO for artist/album with jellyfin, thats what I do for everything from stuff friends have made to home movies and fanedits.

Depends on the hobby because I have too many…

Photography - not much unless I buy used, which is what I usually do. So some funky old lenses and adapters to get on the body, which usually nets some fun results.

Data hoarding - a couple of hard drives. Which I should really do, I’m coming close to 5% free (which sounds like less than it is when you’ve got about 115tb, which is why I’m not rushing out).

Computer Vision / AI - more processing power! But I make work buy me that stuff so its fine.

General compute - about 5 more tiny/mini/micros at the usual price (plus the usual upgrades) to either ads to the cluster or make a new one! Or one or two of the newer little beasts that I will probably be waiting another year or two to pick up.

Bicycling - a good bike for getting around! My bike is about 15 years old now, it was new old stock because no one liked the color apparently - which made it about 1/2 the price of what it should have been. I’ve been replacing gear on it over the years, but I’m tempted to buy something new, honestly less for going fast and maybe more upright, like a hybrid. Which I can get an OK model at that price.

It isn’t hitting it locally is the issue. Not an uncommon problem with plex unfortunately, its going out to come back in, so the server and client see it as remote.

Without playback you wouldn’t even be able to see that in the dashboard, which just makes the direction Plex is going so much more problematic.

Like I said, better off using JF.

Remote, yes, they announced you need Plex pass one side or the other for it to work.

Local, no, that shouldn’t happen. Your device isn’t reaching your Plex server locally.

To work around the remote issue, you can VPN to your local network.

But you’re better off in the long haul with Jellyfin as you’re doing now.

Maybe it’ll detect it as mass storage media and give it access to the built in audio system.

It won’t. Both will be acting as host, so thats not going to work out.

What car do you have?

Else, I’ll just use a bluetooth speaker I have at home. I don’t need good audio for “turn left/turn right”, just to hear it.

Didn’t you want to use it for your music as well with navidrome?

I’ve had Waze become useless three times in the span of two years because they pushed updates that made the app unstable enough to not be reliable.

CoMaps may be up your alley, uses OSM.

I’ll try the recovery mode for my phone and see if that helps!

Hope that works for you regardless, it was an absolute pain when my wife’s phone update (Samsung) broke android auto and Bluetooth connections. Especially since I just bought the car a few weeks before.

How do you plan to get audio in? Bluetooth? Wired audio input?

In your first post you were calling it a head unit, which would replace everything. Given the picture, you have a more fully integrated android auto compatible system rather than a traditional head unit, so I understand why the other commenter pointed to that - its similar to what I would have suggested, which would be to get a din cover appropriately sized, then cut out for a screen.

So the question becomes how do you want to hear and/or see? That would decide placement requirements. For example, I have a nice spot in the passenger seat I could easily hide it behind a panel under the dash, but the audio input I’d have to bring over to the armrest. So I’d run a cable under the carpet to the aux input, bring it up the side of the armrest and plug it in.

FWIW, your phone may work nicely by rebooting into recovery and wiping the cache partition. That resolved things for my wife and her car, no issues or trouble since.

Sorry short hand for tiny/mini/micro. Lenovo tiny, dell micro, and HP mini, some generic used, some I grab from work after their desktop life is done.

Great little workhorses

My NAS just stores, its my stack of tmm’s that do all the heavy lifting.

Though I use a front end for everything, like jellyfin, audiobookshelf, kavita, etc.

My solution was HDMI in as others suggested. Currently a picture slideshow screensaver for Kodi, previously a rooted firestick.

You realize I’m not the same person, right? So maybe change the attitude a bit.

120Hz wasn’t in your original question. For that you’d need to be in direct view LED territory, which is going to be in the $150k+ range, like an FE012I3 (at least with Sharp/NEC).

Sony has a line of Bravia post production OLEDs, the FWD-##A95Ls ( the number is the sizing) which is going to be a phenomenal production quality display. $7k-$10k.

LG and Samsung are all WebOS and Tizen respectively, but the versions are different than the consumer version. So its “smart”, but not in the same way as consumer editions - sampling content and other such things would be a legal nightmare for them. So if you want “smart” but not “consumer smart” you can go that route, but expect about twice the price.

Edit: I suppose I can toss Planar into the mix here, different business purpose and youre not buying them at best buy. They are more of a 24x7 operation design. I don’t think 120hz is on the sale list yet though, those will be part of the UltraRes series.

That wasn’t the question, but sure.

Commercial series displays. Most of those now have the same (well, same base at least) OS on them though.

I’d say Sharp/NEC would be the only “dumb” professional series displays, at least of the major manufacturers.

You’ll be at around $1500-$3000 for a nominal 80" (they make a 75" and an 86").

Roku TVs did that

https://www.pcmag.com/news/roku-bricking-tvs-unless-users-accept-dispute-resolution-terms

I’m sure they do what all huge corporations do.

Make shit up and then say “oops, sorry, here’s a tiny fraction of the profits we made keeping that money for so long as a fine teehee”.

Not really, no.

Tasers can be really fucking dangerous to people. Same with rubber bullets.

Just because its publicly called “non-lethal” doesn’t mean they haven’t caused a lot of people to die.